The short version: Etna makes Italy’s most talked-about new wines from two grapes, Nerello Mascalese for reds and Carricante for whites, on volcanic soil between 400 and 1,000 metres, in 133 named contrade. Go from Taormina for the north-slope wineries, from Catania for the craters and lower prices, and go in October if you can. Below is what is in the glass, how the slopes differ, and how to choose a tour.
Etna at a glance
| Wine | Grapes | Tastes like |
|---|---|---|
| Etna Rosso | At least 80% Nerello Mascalese, with Nerello Cappuccio | Pale, fine, sour-cherry and smoke; closer to Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir than to Nero d’Avola |
| Etna Bianco | At least 60% Carricante | Sharp, saline, lemon and flint; ages for a decade |
| Etna Bianco Superiore | At least 80% Carricante, Milo only | The east slope’s speciality, rarer and longer-lived |
| Etna Rosato | Nerello Mascalese | Dry, pale, mineral; the summer wine |
Why Etna is different
Etna DOC was Sicily’s first, in 1968, and for decades nobody outside the island cared. What changed was a generation of growers who realised that old vines on black lava soil at altitude, with cool nights and a long season, make wines unlike anything else in the south. The mountain is now compared to Burgundy for a reason: since 2011 the 133 contrade, the districts on the slopes, can appear on the label, and the differences between them are real. The north slope around Randazzo, Linguaglossa and Castiglione has the most famous vineyards; the east above Milo is Carricante country with sea air; the south-east near Viagrande is warmer and earlier.
Harvest and season
Whites are picked from late August, Nerello Mascalese from late September to late October, later than anywhere else in Sicily because of the altitude. A visit in October sees the pickers in the terraces and the cellars fermenting; spring shows the vines against snow on the summit. Summer is hot below but pleasant at the wineries.
From Taormina or from Catania?
Taormina is 30 minutes from the north slope, so its tours go to the classic wineries: one to three cellars, often with the Alcantara gorge or a walk on old lava flows, six to eight and a half hours, 150 to 210 dollars. Catania is under an hour from the south slope and the Rifugio Sapienza cable car, so its tours lean towards the volcano itself: a sunset on the craters with a tasting in five or six hours for 70 to 95 dollars, or a full day with a winery lunch for 110 to 150. Syracuse departures run about ten hours. With a car, book a winery visit around Linguaglossa for 45 to 75 dollars. Compare all of them on our Etna wine tours page.
What to eat with it
The wineries feed you well: Bronte pistachios from the west slope, salumi and mountain cheese, honey, and often a full lunch of pasta alla Norma or grilled meats. In Catania the Etna Rosso is the wine for the fish market’s grilled catch; see Catania food tours. In Taormina it appears in every cooking class worth the name.
Frequently asked questions
Is Etna wine expensive?
Entry wines start around 15 euros at the cellar; single-contrada reds from the famous estates run 40 to 100. Tastings are fairly priced and generous.
Which is better, Etna Rosso or Etna Bianco?
Both are excellent; the whites are the surprise for most visitors and the reds the reason critics come. Taste both at every stop.
Can I visit Etna wineries without a tour?
Yes with a car and bookings; the wineries are spread across the mountain and most require an appointment.
How high are the vineyards?
Roughly 400 to 1,000 metres, with a few on the north slope higher still, which is unusual for a red-wine region.
When is the best month for an Etna wine tour?
October, during the Nerello harvest, with the vines turning and the cellars busy.
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