Planning guides: what is in season, which region to choose, and how to get there.
The short version: in Edinburgh, eat haggis, neeps and tatties (haggis with mashed swede and potato), Cullen skink (smoked haddock soup), Scottish oysters and mussels and a full Scottish breakfast, then give an evening to whisky. For haggis, go to…
The short version: in Bordeaux, eat a canelé (the caramelised little rum and vanilla cake) from Baillardran or La Toque Cuivrée, a dozen Arcachon oysters with a glass of Entre-Deux-Mers at the Marché des Capucins, and a côte de bœuf…
The short version: in Marseille, book one proper bouillabaisse (ordered ahead, for two or more), eat panisses and chichis by the sea at L’Estaque, and have a wood-fired pizza in Le Panier. For bouillabaisse, go to Chez Fonfon in the…
The short version: in Nice, eat socca (the peppery chickpea pancake) hot from the oven, a pan bagnat for lunch on the go and a plate of petits farcis or daube ravioli for dinner. For socca, go to Chez Thérésa…
The short version: in Verona, eat risotto all’Amarone, bollito with pearà (boiled meats with a peppery bread and marrow sauce), pastissada de caval (horse stew with polenta) and bigoli with donkey ragù, then buy a pandoro in season. Book one…
The short version: in Turin, eat agnolotti del plin (small pinched pasta parcels), vitello tonnato, tajarin with butter or, in autumn, white truffle, and finish with bonet, the chocolate pudding. Book a Michelin Bib Gourmand trattoria such as Consorzio in…
The short version: in Milan, eat risotto alla milanese, the saffron risotto, with an ossobuco, a cotoletta (the breaded veal chop), mondeghili meatballs and a slice of panettone. Book Ratanà in Isola or Trattoria Milanese near Sant’Ambrogio for the classics,…
The short version: in Cologne, eat a Halve Hahn (a rye roll with a thick slice of aged Gouda, not half a chicken), Himmel un Ääd (mashed potato and apple with fried black pudding), Reibekuchen (crisp potato pancakes) and Rheinischer…
The short version: in Munich, eat a Weißwurst breakfast before noon (white veal sausages with a Brezn, sweet mustard and a wheat beer), a crackling Schweinshaxe (roast pork knuckle), a Brotzeit board with Obatzda (spiced cheese spread) and a warm…
The short version: in Kraków, eat pierogi (filled dumplings), a bowl of żurek (sour rye soup), a zapiekanka (toasted open baguette) from the stalls on Plac Nowy and an obwarzanek (braided bread ring) from a street cart. For the cheapest…