What to Eat in Split: Local Dishes, Where Locals Eat & the Best Food Tours

The short version: in Split, eat pašticada and crni rižot in a konoba in the Varoš lanes, order peka a day ahead, have ćevapi for a cheap lunch and soparnik from the Pazar market. For dinner, book Konoba Fetivi or Pimpinella; for a no-booking local lunch, queue at Villa Spiza. Drink Plavac Mali and Pošip. And if you only have one evening, a guided food tour gets you to the right places in three hours. Below: what to eat, exactly where to eat it, what to drink, and the food experiences worth booking.

What to eat in Split, and where to eat it

Where to eat in Split

The rule that never fails: leave the Riva promenade and its picture menus, and walk five minutes into the stone lanes of Varoš, the old fishermen’s quarter west of the Palace. That is where most of the places below are. From June to September the good ones fill every night, so book dinner a day or two ahead.

For a classic konoba dinner

Konoba Fetivi (Varoš) is the one most locals name first: a family konoba listed in the Michelin Guide (see the Michelin listing), known for grilled fish, crni rižot and pašticada. Expect around 15 to 20 euros for grilled fish with a side. Pimpinella is the place for the two big Dalmatian dishes, pašticada and black risotto. Konoba Marjan is a reliable fish konoba that reviewers rate highly.

For a local lunch without a booking

Villa Spiza is a small place with a short daily menu of Dalmatian classics. Mains run about 14 to 24 euros. It is cash only and fills fast, so arrive before 18:00 or book ahead.

For peka

Konoba Varoš is the city address for peka. Peka cooks for hours under the bell, so call the day before and order for at least two people. It is the meal to plan an evening around.

For a cheap, fast meal

Kantun Paulina is the budget favourite for ćevapi: a portion in warm bread with raw onion and ajvar. It is the Split answer to street food.

For a special dinner

K.užina, behind the Peškarija fish market, holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand (Michelin listing) and cooks modern Dalmatian food from the morning’s catch. ZOI is the fine-dining choice, with views over the Palace walls (Michelin listing). For a creative tasting menu, Krug holds a Michelin star (Michelin listing). All three need a reservation.

Near the beach

At Bačvice, the city beach ten minutes east of the centre, Ma:Toni is a good stop for a meal after a swim.

Names link to Google Maps for directions. We checked these places in October 2026. Many konobas close one day a week or shorten their hours from November to March, so check before you go.

The markets: start your day here

The Pazar, the green market just outside the Silver Gate on the east side of the Palace, is where Split shops: figs, cherries and tomatoes in season, wild greens, Pag cheese, pršut, olive oil and honey. It is also the best place to buy a slice of soparnik, the chard pie from the Poljica villages. A few minutes west, the Peškarija fish market fills from early morning with sardines, sea bream, squid and shellfish; go between 7:00 and 11:00, when it is busiest.

What to drink in Split

The red is Plavac Mali, Dalmatia’s big native grape, from Hvar and the Pelješac slopes; the white to ask for is Pošip, crisp and island-grown. For a glass in the Old Town, Zinfandel Food & Wine bistro is listed in the Michelin Guide (Michelin listing), a wine bistro in the Old Town. Most konobas also pour a house bevanda, wine cut with water, which is how locals drink at lunch. Finish with a shot of travarica, the herb rakija, and in the morning do as Split does and sit over a coffee for an hour on the Riva. To taste the wines where they are made, see our Split wine tours and the Hvar wine tours.

Food experiences to book in Split

A food tour is the fastest way to eat well on a short visit: a local guide takes you to the market, the konobas and the bakeries in a few hours, and explains what you are eating. These are the best-rated options on GetYourGuide.

Our pick: the Flavors of Dalmatia Walking Food Tour, rated 4.8 on GetYourGuide. Want to cook it yourself? See the Split cooking classes, including peka and pasta classes.

Ratings as shown on GetYourGuide in October 2026. Check the listing for live prices and availability.

Food day trips from Split

Split is the best base in Dalmatia for food days out. The Krka waterfalls pair well with a winery stop on the way back; Hvar is an hour away by catamaran for Plavac Mali and lavender; and the hills behind the city are where the best village konobas cook peka. See all of them in our food lover’s day trips from Split.

Frequently asked questions

What is the one dish to eat in Split?

Pašticada, the slow-braised beef with gnocchi, is the most Dalmatian dish; crni rižot, the black cuttlefish risotto, is the seafood one. Pimpinella and Konoba Fetivi do both well.

Where do locals eat in Split?

In the konobas of Varoš, the old quarter west of the Palace, and at village konobas in the hills behind the city, not on the Riva promenade.

Where can I eat cheaply in Split?

Ćevapi at Kantun Paulina, soparnik from the Pazar market, and the daily menu at Villa Spiza (cash only) are the best-value meals in the centre.

How do I order peka?

A day ahead, at a konoba that makes it, such as Konoba Varoš, usually for at least two people. It cooks for hours under the bell.

Do I need to book restaurants in Split?

From June to September, yes, for dinner at the popular konobas. Villa Spiza fills fast, so go early.

Is a Split food tour worth it?

Yes, if you have one or two days: in three hours you see the markets, taste the classics and learn where to eat for the rest of your stay. Compare them above or on our Split food tours page.

Plan your Split food trip

Split food tours · Split cooking classes · Split wine tours · Food day trips from Split · Best food tours in Croatia